Repairs

There's water in the pressure gauge.
This is one of the first questions we get from people that have not looked in the hand book when taking their new machine out of the box.
It is not water, it is glycerine, the gauge is about half full and it is there to dampen the vibration of the needle allowing you to see what the pressure is, rather than just a blur.


Machine humms, and does not turn on
The easiest thing to check is that the motor is free to turn. You can usually fit a screwdriver or something similar through the fan casing to see if the fan wheel turns (it should not freely spin, there will be some resistance) but it should turn. If it does not, then something has seized inside, you can have a look yourself or it is time to find your nearest supplier.
Alternatively if the fan turns, it sounds like the capacitor has failed. Most users that need to order a replacement capacitor have reported that they normally use the machine powered by an extension cable; so you may want to upgrade your extension cable if you need a new starting capacitor.
It is a pretty easy task to exchange the capacitor, please refer to the parts diagrams for help if you want to take the task on yourself, it does not matter which way you connect the wires of the capacitor when replacing.


Machine blows the fuse on start up
Firstly make sure that it is not that you are using an inadequate extension cable. Some plug sockets, more so where in a shed or out-building, are like using an extension cable.
It is worth trying the machine on a different power supply to eliminate this as the problem. It is also worth considering anything else that may be drawing high current from the same supply. The trigger gun should be squeezed when turning the machine on. Without any electrical power supply to the machine, machines without water break tanks and high pressure chemical, should have water come through the end of the lance when connected to mains water pressure and the trigger gun squeezed.
If it does not, then there is most likely a physical blockage somewhere. It could be that the valves are stuck from dried sediment where water may have dried in the pump, more so if you have not used the machine in a while. Machines without water tanks when connected to mains water supply usually the force of the water supply is enough to free them up.


A blockage is most likely in the small hole of the nozzle end of your lance. Remove the lance from the gun, poke through with something like a paper-clip, give it a little tap to make sure it is out, and you should be done. TEST. If nothing still comes through, try removing the trigger gun assembly. The idea is to remove elements of where a blockage from debris can clog the water, small holes are easier to clog. If you still do not have water coming through, check the hose outlet piece is not blocked, or the water in-let filter.


Machine blows the fuse during use
Firstly make sure that it is not that you are using an inadequate extension cable. Do not use light weight extension cables.
Kranzle pressure washer use industrial grade induction motors and will not run properly on diy type cable reels.  If you need to use an extension cable it must be a 2.5mm cross section cable. Some plug sockets, more so where in a shed or out-building, are like using an extension cable. It is worth trying the machine on a different power supply to eliminate this as the problem. It is also worth considering anything else that may be drawing high current from the same supply.


Check what pressure the guage is reading. If it is much higher than your standard operating pressure then your nozzle may be partially blocked. A blockage is most likely in the small hole of the nozzle end of your lance. Remove the lance from the gun, poke through with something like a paper-clip, give it a little tap to make sure it is out, and you should be done. TEST.
If you have an ammeter for reading the amount of amps the machine is drawing it is worth testing, or finding someone that can test this for you. Rule of thumb is that if there is a voltage drop, the amps will go up - but this is more an electrical probelm, than a problem with the pressure washer.
Machine blows the fuse in idle mode after use, but between going back to re-use
Fuses tend to only blow in this way on machines fitted with a Total-Stop system. The problem is an external or internal leak,allowing pressure to escape from the system. This causes the machine to think that the gun is being squeezed so will try to turn on.

The reality is that the gun is not squeezed, and when you turn on the pressure washer without the gun squeezed the energy spike may cause that fuse to pop.
If it is an external leak: you should be able to see the water leaking... Chances are, you've thought "ah, it's just a small leak - I'll not bother fixing it" - but that is what is causing your problem.
If it is an internal leak, it is more dificult to spot. It is most likely that the non-return valve system has some dirt, or debris blocking the seat from forming a proper seal. Or it is possible that these items have worn on an old machine and require servicing.


Problems operating the chemical feature
Low pressure chemical injectors operate on a Venturi system, physics kind of means they have to work. But, if you can't get your chemical to work.
Ensuring that the chemical pick up feed hose is fully submersed, you just need to open up the chemcal feature on your lance:
(A) with a standard design lance, the end twists around to adjust the amount of chemical sucked up.
(B) with a Vario design lance, the adjustable spray pattern grip slides away from you to draw through the chemical.
If you are using long lengths of high pressure hose, the Venturi cannot sufficiently operate and we can suggest other methods that may suit your exact requirements.
Usually only a problem with older machines, but it is possible for some more of the more gunky cleaning agents to dry around the spring inside the chemical hose barb. The barb will unscrew using a spanner, try not to lose the barb, ball or spring and clean up. If this continues to happen using your prefered cleaning agent, try drawing through a little water through the chemical hose before putting the machine away.


Oil change, Changing the oil on a Kranzle.
This does really depend on which machine you have.
There are two standard oil types used in the Kranzle pressure washers: 15W/40 and 10W/60
The oil type, and how much is needed is in the Operators Hand book. Always check your operator handbook, or contact your supplier.


All Kranzles come with the correct level of oil all ready for you to use. We suggest that after the first 50 operating hours, taking care to ensure any waste oil is responsibly disposed of, drained from the oil resevoir. Then add a little new oil, seal up the oil chamber and turn it on for just a second or two. Drain, and repeat until what comes out is 'nice and clear'.
Then fill to the correct level as per your operators hand book.


It only takes a few parts per thousand of water to emulsify oil and the only real way of getting all traces out of a water contaminated oil chamber is to strip down the machine, and wipe clean all of the parts. It is not the colour of the oil that is important though, it is the consistency of the oil. Oil is only in there for heat dispersal, and lubrication for the transmission parts.


Oil leak
Try and work out where the oil is leaking from first. It could be as simple that the oil sight glass is loose and oil is running out that way.
Having checked all the filling, draingage and level plugs, the next likely place for oil to be leaking from is the housing plate between the brass pump and the oil casing, through the leakage drain-off chambers. This would indicate that the oil seals have worn and need replacing.


Water leak
If the leak is from the housing plate between the brass pump and the oil casing, through the leakage drain-off chambers. This would indicate that the water seals have worn and need replacing.
If there is a leak between the gun and the lance, the gun and the hose, the machine and the hose, or where your water feed connects, then you probably just need to replace the correct o-ring.


Motor does not turn on
Having checked that the plug is live, and on. That the fuse is not blown, and that it is not just a problem with the way the machine is being turned on without the gun being squeezed and blowing the fuse. If the machine has a switch that illuminates - does it? If it doesn't then power is not even getting that far.
It is worth checking the electric cable for damage, it may have been crushed - this can start as an intermittent fault, developing as the cable's condition deteriorates. Check the fan wheel turns (it should not freely spin, there will be some resistance) but it should turn. You can usually fit a screwdriver or something similar through the fan casing to see if the fan wheel turns. If it does not, then something has seized inside, you can have a look yourself or it is time to find your nearest supplier.

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